After finding out too late to get a more than 21 day visa for the Philippines we would need to leave and go somewhere...we chose Bangkok. So whilst there I planned in a visit to Pak Thale, probably the best place to try and see Spoon-billed Sandpiper.
We were staying at a friends apartment in Bang Na to the East and spent 3 of our 5 day trip just relaxing and eating, but on the 24th I tried but failed to even get out of Bangkok in a hire car using sat nav, leaving me just the morning of the 25th to get there and see it, plus hopefully Nordman's Greenshank and Great Knot.
Our friend had a contact who had a van and drivers who could take me, all I had to do was part with 3500 baht ($110) and I'd be taken there for 06:00.
So obviously I did this and despite a false start due to lack of understanding as to which building to meet me by, was at a salt pan before dawn............just not the right one.
I spent 20-30 minutes de-misting my scope due to the air con, which everyone has up so high and this was really annoying as scoping the numerous waders and other birds during this time was virtually impossible.
As I stood mopping my scope, the sky was filled with Black Drongo, I have never seen so many, there were tons of Marsh Sandpipers and Black Winged Stilt, it was simply amazing, almost too many birds to look at and I wasn't even in the the right place yet.
Having shown the driver my guide book and pointing to Spoon Billed Sandpiper, he then proclaimed he knew where to go, I thought "why bring me here, what did you think I wanted to see then?"
We left and drove another 3-4 km past what looked like an oil refinery on the left, then turned right at the sign marked 'Pak Thale Wader Sanctuary'.
Just a few hundred yards on the bend we turned off the tarmac road right onto a dirt track and stopped in a small parking area about 1km which was a dead end. Salt pans in all directions and the driver said "we are here". "Where do I look" I said, he motioned his arm in an arc to suggest everywhere and my heart sank, already seeing large flocks of terns, herons, waders and gulls everywhere. Good stuff for a Brit to see any day of course, Greater & Lesser Sandplover, Marsh Sandpipers, Terek Sandpipers, uncountable numbers of Stilts, large noisy locks of Common and Whiskered Terns, Great White Egrets, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, many groups of Red-necked Stints.
I stood there scoping in all directions thinking "I am screwed, there is too much to look at nobody else here and I only have 3-4 hours. But my resolve kicked in, "well get on with looking properly" I said to myself and walked towards a dilapidated hut, where a woman with bins sat. Suddenly noticing the big sign with a lovely photo of my target bird, I said "is this here?"..."yes" she said, "today?"...."yes"..........."where?" .....the same arm arcing motion followed and I walked on thinking "does no-one speak darn English here?"
I turned left at the first junction of bund wall, got to the next junction about 60 yards further and noticed two photographers sat very low down along the bund wall 120 yards to my right, with cameras pointing to my left, so sat down and began scoping and less than 10 minutes of panning around, my eyes fell on this fantastic little wader, as my brain realised what I was looking at, I had a sharp intake of breath and a massive warm tingle all over, "there it is, oh wow".
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Spoon-billed Sandpiper with Marsh Sandpiper Pak Thale 25th Nov 2012 |
I took about 120 pics with my iphone, but again the air con had played havoc with the clarity of the lens and ability to capture anything in focus. Either way I found a second bird about 40 yard further along the same bund wall. Also present were Terek Sandpiper, Greater Sandplover, Kentish Plover, Red-necked Stint, untold Black Winged Stilt, Spotted Redshank, Greenshank and Pacific Golden plover, amazing how light conditions make waders look so different, plus when you patch bird the UK, or even twitch rarities you only see one bird, so seeing flocks of everything is very cool, but takes getting used to.
A local guy walked up to me as I pointed the two birds out and he said there were actually 5 there, but he said he could not believe my luck in finding 2 on my own on my first visit and seemed flabbergasted I had to leave in 2-3 more hours to return to the Philippines. He was a ringer and actually more interested in the leg tagged Red Necked Stint nearby, which he had ringed in Taiwan, so he was very chuffed with that.
On getting back to the car parking area, I chatted with him some more and was told Nordman's Greenshank wasn't in yet, because the winter winds had not happened so far. I can vouch for that as was over 90 at 07:45. He did direct me to the best spot for Gtreat Knot and seeing these I also took distant snaps of some Terek Sands, Temminck's Stint, Sandplovers, Broad-billed Sandpiper and afew other bits.
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Great White Egret 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Terek & Marsh Sandpiper, Red-Necked Stint 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Sandplover flock & Broad-Billed Sandpipers 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Multitude of waders including Great Knot 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Gull Billed Tern 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Pacific Golden Plover 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Painted Stork 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Marsh Sandpiper 25th Nov Pak Thale |
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Pacific Golden Plover & Temminck's Stints 25th Nov Pak Thale |